UNS 60U Reef System

A 30-gallon closed-loop reef system I modeled in Fusion 360, then built.

2026

The finished UNS 60U reef tank, aquascaped with rock and corals
What it is
A complete reef system built around a UNS 60U tank, covering the stand, sump, plumbing, and an equipment bay beside the stand. About 30 gallons total.
My role
Designer and builder. I modeled the whole system in Fusion 360, then built it.
Tools
Fusion 360, DXF export for cutting, PVC pipe and fittings, Silicone (sump baffles), 1/2 in plywood, Kreg pocket-hole jig, Miter saw, Hand saw, Clamps, Sandpaper, Stain
Timeframe
August–September 2026

01 The problem

A reef tank needs plumbing, filtration, and equipment to keep the water clean and stable. My system and all its equipment had to fit between my bed and my desk, and cost less than $350. The plumbing had to run as a closed loop, so all water leaving the tank returns to it, and a power outage couldn't flood the floor.

02 Design

Water moves through the system in one loop:

  1. Overflow. An overflow box skims water off the top of the display tank.
  2. Drain. Two PVC lines carry it down to the sump, a second tank under the display that holds equipment. The second line has an emergency standpipe: a backup in case the main drain clogs.
  3. Sump with custom baffles. Baffles (walls inside the sump) split it into chambers, so water passes through each stage in order: mechanical filtration, then skimming and the refugium, then the return.
  4. Return line. A pump sends clean water back up to the display tank.

A second, pump-fed loop runs water through an inline UV sterilizer. It lives in an equipment bay beside the stand, along with a dosing pump and the power strip.

The stand. I built the stand from 1/2 in plywood, joined with Kreg pocket holes. The top rests directly on the side panels, and the tank sits right over those sides, so its weight transfers straight down instead of loading the joints. L brackets reinforce the joints in shear, and the shelf is there more for twist rigidity than for storage. I sanded and stained it to finish.

Why a separate equipment bay. Saltwater and electronics don’t mix, and keeping things clean under my desk was a necessity. I designed the separate bay to keep the inside of the stand clean, to keep the water and the electronics apart, and to leave room for future equipment like auto testers.

Planning for a power outage. When the pump stops, water in the return line can siphon backward into the sump. A siphon break lets air into the line to stop that flow early, which limits how much water drains down. Mine is a small hole in the return line, 0.25 in below the waterline, so about 0.34 gal drains back (see the numbers below).

Full assembly

Fusion 360 render of the rimless tank on its dark walnut stand, doors closed
1 / 7

The UNS 60U on its stand, doors closed.

03 The numbers

How much water comes back down to the sump when the power goes out.

QuantityValueHow I got it
Drain-down volume in a power outage0.343 galWhen the pump stops, water siphons back down the return line until the tank level reaches the siphon-break hole, 0.25 in below the waterline. The UNS 60U is 23.15 × 13.7 in inside, so 23.15 × 13.7 × 0.25 = 79.3 in³, and 79.3 ÷ 231 in³/gal = 0.343 gal.

04 Build

Fusion 360 model of the equipment bay panel

CAD

The equipment bay as I modeled it in Fusion 360.

The built equipment bay on a plywood panel, with a three-head peristaltic doser and its containers, a power strip, and a 9-watt UV sterilizer

Built

As built, with each piece where I placed it in the model. Left to right: a peristaltic doser dosing nitrate, alkalinity, and magnesium; the power strip; and a 9-watt UV sterilizer.

Empty rimless tank outdoors with a black overflow box fitted inside
The tank with its overflow box fitted. The box is an off-the-shelf Eshopps Eclipse M.
The tank sitting on the stand outdoors, with the door open and the sump inside
Dry fit. Tank on the stand, sump inside.
Glass sump with baffle panels held by wood blocks and blue tape, next to a caulk gun
Gluing the sump baffles in with silicone. Wood blocks and tape hold them in place while it cures.
Two white PVC drain pipes running from the overflow box down the back of the stand
Drain plumbing. Two PVC lines run from the overflow box down to the sump.
The sump filled with water and running, with plumbing above it
The sump running. Left to right: mechanical filtration, skimming and refugium, return.

05 What failed and what I changed

Microbubbles. Tiny air bubbles kept showing up in the display tank. I traced them to the return pump: when the water in the sump's return chamber ran low, the pump pulled in air and pushed it into the tank. I added a bubble trap to stop bubbles from moving across the sump and into the return.

Saltwater on the electronics. Saltwater spilled over my old surge protector. That's why I designed and built the equipment organizer: a separate bay beside the stand that keeps the electronics away from the water and the inside of the stand clean.

06 Result

It has never leaked, and it has been running since the day it was filled.

Next time I would build the equipment organizer sooner, before corrosion and spills had a chance to cause problems.

Close view of the finished reef tank, with rock arches, corals, and white sand
The finished system running.
Looking down into the tank under blue light, with several small Acropora corals on the rockwork in front of the overflow box
Acropora, seen from above. Acros are among the most demanding corals to keep; they need stable water chemistry to grow and hold their color.
Looking down into the tank under blue light, with branching Acropora on frag plugs and a yellow plating Montipora near the bottom
More Acropora, plus a plating Montipora (the yellow plate near the bottom).